The Round Brilliant Cut: History, Evolution Through Time and Different Styles

 The cut is one of the most important factors of a gemstone as it determines the amount of shine and its overall look. There are various types of cuts that can be done on a gemstone, but the Round Brilliant Cut is one of the most famous and popular cuts ever known.

The round brilliant cut can be done on any kind of gemstone such as emeralds, rubies, and sapphires; but because most of the diamonds are cut this way, it is most known as the standard cut for diamonds. In fact, when someone talks about diamonds, the picture that comes into your mind is the image of a round brilliant cut diamond, not a piece of a rough diamond! It is even said that 9 out of each 10 diamonds are round brilliant cut! Diamonds are so intertwined with the round brilliant cut that in some countries people confuse “Brilliant” with the name of a specific kind of diamond!

In this exciting article, we are going to find out what does a round brilliant cut gemstone looks like? What are the properties and benefits of this type of cut? Why should we choose it? Does this cut have various shapes and types itself or not? Stay with us and step into the shiny world of the round brilliant cut!


History and Evolve Through Time

In the earliest findings of man’s history, diamonds were first used because of their hardness property. The rough diamond stone did not have such shine we know today and people could just see a tough piece of rock that could help them in many ways in their lives. Back in those days, only rulers used to wear these gemstones and not because of their beauty, but because diamonds were symbols of power and invincibility.

Later in the 14th century, people tried cutting diamonds for the first time, and here is where the first diamond cut was born. The point-cut, known as the most basic cut for gemstones, had 8 facets in the shape of two mirrored pyramids, one on the top and the other at the bottom. This cut is known as the first sample that later evolved to form today's version of round brilliant cut. Although, the cut could not reflect the light finely and just had a more beautiful shape than the other rough pieces of diamonds did. 

In the first years of the 15th century, the famous table cut was invented. The cut had a more similar shape to the round brilliant-cut and was made of 10 facets. One flat facet on the top, four smaller facets around the flat facet, and four other facets that lead to a culet that was a small facet and not pointed.

During the mid-sixteenth century, jewellers advanced the table cut and formed the old single cut, which had 18 facets instead of 10 and had a pointed culet.

Here we must mention the name of two famous gemstone cutters, Vicenzio Peruzzi and Cardinal Jules Mazarin. The names of these two persons are mentioned a lot in history books and what we know about them is very ambiguous. There is a rumour that Peruzzi is the first inventor of the round brilliant-cut while there is the same credit being said about Mazarin.

In the mid-seventeenth century, Mazarin cut a diamond with 34 polished facets, much shinier than whatever they had seen before, and named it the Mazarin cut. The cut was very popular until Vicenzio Peruzzi cut a 58 faceted diamond in the late 17th century and formed a diamond very similar to today's form of round brilliant cut, but with a small difference that the girdle in this type of cut was not circular.

Henry D. Morse, the Bostonian diamond cutter, is known as the pioneer of the round brilliant cut. As a result of his meeting with an engineer named Charles Field, they invented the steam-driven bruting machine that let Morse cut round and symmetrical diamonds much easier. This invention changed the game in diamond cutting history. 

By using machines for cutting gems, round became the new standard and the expectations of a perfectly cut, symmetrical diamond went high. The European then started cutting diamonds using this machine and produced diamonds with a cut named “Old European Cut”. The cut included octagonal table facets, short pavilions, and high crowns. Morse then did some changes in the design of round brilliant to reach the best glow and shine. What he did came to light almost 40 years later and two men named Wade and Tolkowsky evolved Morse’s idea and made the today known round brilliant-cut!

The modern, standard round brilliant cut consists of a total of 58 facets. 32 on its crown, 24 on its pavilion, 1 as the table, and 1 as the culet.


Shape Vs. Cut

Some may not distinguish the difference between gemstones cut and shape and consider them as one. A way for recognizing them is to know the fact that the shape of each stone could be cut in different styles. A stone's cut varies in size and the number of its facets on the gemstone's surface. For instance, a squared shape stone can be cut in different styles like a step cut or a brilliant cut and each of them would have their special names, like a squared shape stone, cut in a brilliant style that is named princess cut.


Top 5 Modified Brilliant Cuts

Over time, fancy-cut gemstones gained popularity and became a trend. Cutting styles that are derived from the original round brilliant cut are called modified brilliant cuts. When any shape other than round is combined with a brilliant cut, a modified-brilliant cut is made. Here is a list of the most popular modified brilliant cuts, also known as fancy cuts:


1. Princess Cut

The princess cut is the most famous and popular modified-brilliant cut. The cut is a combination of the square shape and brilliant-cut and reflects the light so beautifully with its pointed corners. Because of its modern and classy look, the princess-cut can be done on any kind of gemstone and make the best out of it.



2. Pear-Shaped Brilliant Cut

A pear cut is a combination of a round brilliant cut and a marquise cut that together form a brilliant teardrop. The very special, symmetrical cut makes the illusion of longer and thinner fingers when worn, as it has an elongated shape. Pear gemstones make any kind of jewellery look absolutely unique and eye-catching.



 3. Heart Shaped Brilliant Cut

Hearts have always symbolized romance and love and that’s why they are amongst the most popular cutting styles for engagement rings. Looking at the heart-shaped gemstones from above, they compromise the shape of a heart and there is a pointed culet under them that can be seen from the side view. Elegance and symmetry are the most important factors that should be considered when buying a heart-shaped gemstone.


4. Oval Shaped Brilliant Cut

A unique shape for diamonds, an oval cut is a smart combination of round brilliant and marquise cut. This cut also makes fingers look longer and thinner because of their elongated shape. Because of its multiple facets, the oval cut reflects the light slightly and brings the maximum amount of brilliance out of the gemstone.


5. Cushion Cut

Also known as “Pillow-cut”, Cushion-cut is a special, beautiful derivation of the round brilliant cut. The cut has a squared shape with rounded corners that make it extremely unique and eye-catching. Cushion-cut diamonds are very popular choices for engagement rings as well.


Shopping jewelleries from a reliable store is very important. You can browse a variety of jewellery items with all kinds of fancy-cut gemstones and more right here on Hassanzadeh Jewellery Website and shop the one that catches your eyes.


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