The Round Brilliant Cut: History, Evolution Through Time and Different Styles

The cut is one of the most important factors of a gemstone, as it regulates the amount of shine and its overall look.

There are various types of cuts that can be done on a gemstone, but one of the most famous and popular cuts ever known is the Round Brilliant Cut.

The round brilliant cut can be done on any kind of gemstone such as emeralds, rubies, and sapphires; but because most of the diamonds are cut this way, it is most known as the standard cut for diamonds.

 In fact, when someone talks about diamonds, the picture that comes into your mind is the image of a round brilliant cut diamond, not a piece of a rough diamond! It is even said that 9 out of each 10 diamonds are round brilliant cut! Diamonds are so intertwined with the round brilliant cut that in some countries, people confuse "Brilliant" with the name of a specific kind of diamond!

In this 
exhilarating article, we are going to find out how a round brilliant cut gemstone actually does look, the properties and benefits this type of cut owns, why we should choose it, and does this cut have various shapes and types itself or not? Stay with us and step into the shiny world of round brilliant cut!

History and Evolution Through Time

First discovered due to their property of hardness, diamonds have been in use since the earliest findings of man's history. The rough stone did not have such shine as we know today and people could just see a tough piece of rock that could help them in many ways in their lives. Diamonds were worn by only the rulers back in those days and again, not because of their beauty, but diamonds were the signs of power and invincibility.

Later
, in the 14th century, people made their first tries to cut the diamonds, and here was born the first cut of a diamond. The most basic cut known for gemstones, the so-called point-cut, had a shape of two mirrored pyramids, one from the top and one at the bottom, featuring 8 facets. This cut is known as the first sample that later evolved to form today's version of round brilliant cut. Although, the cut could not reflect the light finely and just had a more beautiful shape than the other rough pieces of diamonds did.

The first years of the 15th century saw the invention of the famous table cut. It was more similar to the round brilliant-cut, but it consisted of 10 facets: one flat facet on the top, four smaller facets around the flat facet, and four other facets that lead to a culet which was a small facet, not pointed.

During the mid-sixteenth century, jewellers advanced the table cut and formed the old single cut, which had 18 facets instead of 10 and had a pointed culet.

Here we 
have to mention the name of two famous gemstone cutters, Vicenzio Peruzzi and Cardinal Jules Mazarin. The name of these two persons comes a lot in the history books, and whatever is known about them is very ambiguous. It is rumoured that Peruzzi is the first inventor of the round brilliant-cut, while there is the same credit being said about Mazarin.

In the mid-seventeenth century, Mazarin cut a diamond with 34 polished facets
 much shinier than whatever they had seen before and called it Mazarin cut, the cut was very popular till Vicenzio Peruzzi in late 17th cut a 58 faceted diamond and formed a diamond very similar to today form of round brilliant cut but with a small difference that girdle in this type of cut was not circular.

Henry D. Morse
 was known as a Bostonian diamond cutter and a pioneer of the round brilliant cut. Because he met an engineer named Charles Field, they devised the steam-driven bruting machine that allowed Morse to cut round and symmetrical diamonds much more easily. It is an invention that has turned the tables of diamond-cutting history.

By using machines for cutting gems, round became the new standard and the expectations of a perfectly cut, symmetrical diamond went high. The European then started cutting diamonds using this machine and produced diamonds with a cut named 
"Old European Cut". The cut included octagonal table facets, short pavilions and high crowns. Morse then made some changes in the design of round brilliant to reach the best glow and shine. What he did came to light almost 40 years later and two men named Wade and Tolkowsky evolved Morse's idea and made the today known round brilliant-cut!

The modern, standard round brilliant cut 
has 58 facets in all: 32 on its crown, 24 on its pavilion, 1 as the table, and 1 as the culet.

Shape Vs. Cut

For some, shape and cut are the same when speaking about gemstones. Of the ways to tell the difference, one way of looking at it is that each of these shapes could be cut differently. A cut of a stone differs in its size and number regarding its facets on the surface of the gemstone. A stone with a squared shape can be cut in a different styles for example a step cut or a brilliant cut, each of them would have their special names, like a squared shape stone, cut in a brilliant style that is named princess cut.

Top 5 Modified Brilliant Cuts

With time, ornately cut diamonds became popular and trended. The cutting styles derived from the original round brilliant cut are called modified brilliant cuts. When ever any shape other than round is combined with brilliant cut, it is called a modified-brilliant cut. Following is a list of some of the more popular modified brilliant cuts, the so-called "fancy" cuts:

1. Princess Cut

The Princess cut is the most famous and popular modified-brilliant cut. 
A combination of square and brilliant cut, the cut reflects the light so beautifully with its pointed corners. Due to its modern and classy look, a princess cut can be done on any kind of gemstone and make the best out of it.

2. Pear-Shaped Brilliant Cut

The pear cut is a combination of a round brilliant cut and a marquise cut which together forms a brilliant teardrop. The very special symmetrical cut makes the illusion of longer and thinner fingers when worn, as it has an elongated shape. Pear gemstones make any kind of jewellery look absolutely unique and eye-catching.

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3. Heart Shaped Brilliant Cut

Hearts have always symbolized romance and love
, and that is why they are amongst the most popular cutting styles for engagement rings. When the heart-shaped gemstones are looked at from above, they compromise the shape of a heart, and there is a pointed culet under them that can be seen from the side view. The most important factors that should be considered while buying a heart-shaped gemstone are elegance and symmetry.



4. Oval Shaped Brilliant Cut

An exceptional shape for diamonds, the oval cut is an intelligent marriage of round brilliant and marquise cut. This cut too makes fingers look more elongated and thinner. Due to multiple facets, an oval cut reflects the light partially and brings out the maximum brilliance out of the gemstone.

5. Cushion Cut

Also 
called the "Pillow-cut", this Cushion-cut is a particular beautiful derivation from the round brilliant cut. Having a square with softened corners gives extreme uniqueness and catches the eye with this cut. Cushion-cut diamonds have very popular uses as engagement ring options.



The most important thing is to buy jewellery from reliable store. 

You can see different types of fancy-cut gemstones and more here on the  website of Hassanzadeh Jewellery, and shop whichever one catches your eye.

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